Pepe Godzilla

i gotta say: Puddings are somewhat nice, but always too gamer.

I reckon, “Pudding refined” with milky white bottom and Cherry style legends would look nice on most keebs.

By design, mechs are quite a bit taller, because the switches are taller.

Unless you’re a “floating” typist, I would recommend a palmrest.

PBT will also shine at some point. Whether it’s sooner or later depends on how you type and how greasy or sweaty your fingers are. PBT can’t do magic, it’s just a, usually softer, plastic.

If you’re looking for cheap caps, try aliexpress or taobao.

Afaik Drop sets are exclusives. You may have a good chance finding those 2nd hand on mechmarket though. Maybe even for less than 100$.

See other comments.

I’d like to add that 3U spacebars are available with 2U and 3U stabilizers. Make sure you have the correct wire size.

Out of curiousity: 3U space with 3U or 2U wires?

I kinda hate 3u bars for three reasons:

• They are not standardized. the bars you just spent 30$ on might not even fit
• it’s never stated what wiresize the 3U bars need when buying caps
• there’s only one bar in mosts sets.

3U bars are a half nightmare and need to be standardized. I much prefer 2.25/2.75 for those reasons, although it looks like shyte compared to nice and symmetrical 3U.

geekhack.org IC or GB subforums or the designers discord channel if they have one. Some also post to /r/mechmarket

Drop is one of the rare shops that don’t run group buys, but have in stock items instead. Mostly. No need for fomo unless stated otherwise on the product page.

Also, they have at least one buy-one-get-one-free sale per year. Because of that, you have a good chance of getting one second hand for less than a new one.

Regarding kitting you have to watch out for modifiers in the correct size for the correct row, but most keyboards are fairly standard with the exception being the bottom row. Check Shift, Ctrl, Alt, Space and Fn/Win for correct size.

It’s german qwertz.

I just started soldering. It’s not too difficult and super useful. Also adds a lot of options that are usually cheaper than hotswap.

A pinecil is 25$. add another 25 for solder, flux, a pump and copper desoldering braid and you’re set up.

I found hotswap is increasingly difficult to get once you’re looking for non-massmarket stuff outside of 60 or 65 keebs with ANSI Layout.

It’s just faster to solder than to search for non-standard hotswap.

And with millmax, you can make any solderboard hotswap if you fancy.