TiggerLASB
Instead of an ER605, you might want to consider the ER7212PC instead.
It has a built in 8-port switch, 4 of which are POE, and it has an integrated access point controller. A very nice all-in-one solution.
That would probably allow you to eliminate the POE switch and the OC200.
10/100Mb network connections use only 2 pairs, the Orange and Green pairs.
1Gb connections need all 4 pairs (8 wires).
If the termination failed, and it resulted in lack of connectivity with one or more wires belonging to the Blue or Brown pairs, then the switch would only negotiate a 100Mb link.
If you’re crimping on plastic plugs - I recommend against it. They are prone to failure. Best to punch down to jacks, and then use patch cords from there.
First, make sure that you’re not behind CGNAT with your carrier. Refer to the dozens of on-line articles for instructions on how to check.
If you’re NOT behind CGNAT, then you might have one of a number of finicky routers that won’t port-forward from-and-to the same port number. I’ve run into several over the years.
In those instances, pick a random port number from the high UDP range, (40000-60000) or so.
Let’s say you pick 45678.
Let’s also assume that your Minecraft server is at 192.168.1.200 on your LAN, and listening on port 25565.
Go into your router, and configure the port forwarding rule like this:
External IP: ____ Blank or 0.0.0.0 – whichever your router requires.
External Port: __ 45678
Protocol: TCP
Internal IP: ____192.168.1.200 <<< Use your minecraft server IP here.
Internal Port: __25565
Save your settings, and restart your router.
Then, have your friend(s) try connecting to: YourPublicIPAddress:45678
See if that works. . .
(Again, this won’t work if you’re behind CGNAT.)
Can you clarify the term “corrugated ducts”?
Do you mean flexible “corrugated” conduit, also referred to as ENT or “Smurf tubing” ?
Or do you mean actual Air conditioning / HVAC ductwork?
You may want to try-before-you-buy, by placing an ordinary WiFi router in different locations, and using a cellphone app like “WiFi Analyzer” to see what kind of signal levels you get. (You don’t need ISP connectivity, the router will still broadcast without it. . .)
Depending on the dimensions of your rooms, an access point in the hallway by the door to bathroom 2 might be able to cover both bedrooms on its own, leaving the AT & T router (if it has WiFi) to cover the living room/dining room.
You might want to take a peek at the ER707-M2, which is one of TP-Link’s newer routers. It has 2 x 2.5Gb ports, 4 x 1Gb ports, and a 1Gb SFP port.
With a small floor-plan like this, a single ceiling-mounted access point should cover most of your living spaces without any trouble. Somewhere along the wall between the bedroom and dining room, towards the walkway to the kitchen. Then you can mount an outdoor access point along the garage wall to support the garage, and what I’m assuming is an outdoor area that you want covered.
Where does the power come in, and where is your breaker box?
If you want to stay with TP-Link, you could try their newer ER707-M2 router, which sports 2 x 2.5gb ports, and 4 x 1Gb ports.
It is well over triple the performance of your current router, at an attractive price.
It would definitely be an improvement for wired speeds.
As for an improvement to WiFi speeds – it’s hard to say. That would be predicated on the access points themselves, and less on your router.
To answer your question though - an EdgeRouter4 would be more than capable of making the most of your ISP’s speed.
You don’t have link-lights showing in that photo.
Unplug all of the cables from the switch, and power-cycle the switch.
Then, try plugging just ONE of the cables into the switch, and see if any of the link lights come on – being sure to note that they may take a second or two before they light up.
No joy? Unplug that cable, and try another one.
If none of your cables end up turning on your link lights, then your switch is most likely dead.
Try the other switch, and see if you get the same results.