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Maybe the router is the DNS server for the network, especially if it has content filtering.

If your router doesn’t have enough LAN ports for your devices, you can get an inexpensive gigabit Ethernet switch to add more.

You might find bargains on newer gear with higher specs at resale shops.

I did that last Friday. It was a night parade, no sky light, with inadequate street lighting, on a narrow two lane old-time urban street. 50 mm was definitely too long (on full frame) for many of the shots but I managed to place myself at a turn in the road so it wasn’t awful. I exposed for the highlights, which consisted of a multitude of Christmas lights on each float, and a lot of the shadows were indeed rather dark. The lens was a f/1.8, and most of my shots were f/2.2 at rather elevated ISO. My keeper rate was well below what I’m accustomed to. Definitely I’d use a wider lens were I to do this again, like maybe my 28 mm f/2.8, and I’d shoot it wide open.

Imagine you want a drink of water. What is best: going outside in the rain and opening your mouth up to catch drops, or turning on a water faucet? WiFi is like rain, Ethernet is like a faucet.

Doesn’t Spectrum provide a modem for no extra charge? But if you are having difficulties with yours, they’ll swap it out for you.

Cascading switches is fine.

As they said.

But use Ethernet for new network cabling. Coax is good if it is already installed in the walls, but not so good for new work.

Change the shop WiFi device to Access Point mode if possible. Change its SSID (WiFi name), password, and security setting to exactly match your home setting. Then devices will roam seamlessly between home and shop.

At 2000 square feet one unit might work. If you have brick, stone, or concrete interior walls, then it probably won’t work well.

Usually I recommend one WiFi access point per thousand square feet per floor, especially with stick frame and plaster construction, although more area per AP is usable if the surrounding WiFi radio environment isn’t too crowded.