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18 points
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You can get a 800Wp (max allowed Wp for a balcony solar) kit in austria for around 500€, germany is currently limited to 600Wp so it should be about the same price or cheaper. And you just need to plug them into a schuko outlet, so most people should be able to do it themselve.

Edit: Fixed units

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8 points

I felt a great disturbance in the Force, as if thousands of physics teachers suddenly cringed and started yelling “Get your units right!”.

spoiler

Wh is a unit of energy (1 Wh = 3.6 kJ) and by nature cumulative. And cumulative units can’t peak, so Whp [sic] is impossible as a unit. What you really meant is Wp, as W is a unit of power (1 W = 1 J/s), which is a momentary value and momentary values can peak.

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2 points

Luckily I’m not in school anymore xD

But thx for correcting me, edited my post, should be correct now :)

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0 points

I’m sure the original comment had incorrect units as used, but this explanation that cumulative units “can’t peak” seems wrong.

If you consider the total stored energy (Wh) over time of a solar-battery system under load, there certainly will be peaks or, in other words, maximal excess capacity of the system.

So no, it’s not impossible to define a unit of Whp as such. “Cumulative” and “momentary” values are not exclusive and also do not have any bearing on whether a function of such values has maxima and minima.

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5 points
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New VDE recommendations say 800W on Schuko is tolerated. Wieland is of course better. That’s btw not solar panel capacity but inverter capacity, you can have 2kW on your balcony as long as you’re not feeding more than 800W into the net you don’t need any permits no need to contact your utility no nothing.

What you should pay attention to as a renter without already existing balcony outlet though is your landlord: They generally don’t like it when you drill holes through exterior walls, window frames, whatnot. Use window feed-through cables (for the PV connections, not the 220V), or dish out (quite a bit) of money to have it done properly (after talking to the landlord). At which point yes you want a Wieland outlet they’re maybe 20 bucks, what’s going to cost money is the electrician.

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1 point

If you have an outside light on your balcony, you can probably feed it through there, though I’m not quite sure how power coming from inside the circuit interacts with the internal circuit breakers - lights sockets are usually not in the same internal subnetwork as wall sockets and this method would be feeding the power into the first circuit which is usually were all your lamps are, not into the second which is usally were all your appliances are, and it’s quite possible that the circuit breakers for the lamps’ circuit triggers with less current than the one for circuits meant to drive things with much higher power draw like vacuum cleaners, ovens and washing machines.

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1 point

Modern meters take that into account (and you’ll get one by the energy provider if you don’t have it already when you tell them you installed such solar panels), everything that’s used in your home gets balanced against what you produce, regardless of which specific circuit uses / provides energy. (Only immediate usage though, and if you add a battery that can save your excess energy instead of feeding it back into the grid you roughly quadruple the cost so that’s quite a bit more expensive.)

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1 point
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Lighting fixtures in adjacent rooms are supposed to be on different breakers, not sure whether that also applies to balconies, not a room as such is it… but I’m no electrician. While I did get an A in electrotechnics I don’t know the VDE norms by heart (nor would I touch the wiring in a breaker panel).

OTOH it’s perfectly permissible to have outlets and lighting on the same breaker. That’s all to say I wouldn’t be surprised or shocked to find that a balcony light is on a general “living room” circuit.

I don’t think it matters in practice which phase the inverter is on. If you run the meter backwards with one phase and forwards with another, it should be still. We’re not talking about an autonomous installation, after all, when the external network is down and there’s no frequency to sync to those inverters stop outputting.

Which all makes me wonder: Why aren’t we mandating that all new installations come with network isolation and points where you can plug in panels, battery etc? The hardware isn’t that expensive and installing it is practically free when you’re doing the initial installation.

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