I’m new to bouldering, I started 3.5 months ago and love it. I was wondering what kind of training routines you all recommend for advancing? When do you decide to move on to more difficult problems? Any personal words of wisdom?

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I’m an absolute beginner and was very surprised today by how little my strength training background translated to even the easiest routes. I could do all the “green” ones, which translate to… I don’t know, the easiest grades, there’s way too many standards to remember. But not one of the “yellow” routes. And frankly some of the green ones were extremely difficult!

It feels like I have no idea what to do with my body, which is understandable given it was the first time I’ve tried. But where do I learn that?

It’s wild, I’ve been doing weighted pull-ups for months and it didn’t seem to count for shit on the walls. Humbling, not that that’s necessarily a bad thing. But I’m genuinely one of the strongest people at my normal gym!

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Sounds boring but just doing it more. I find it hard to learn by copying someone as I can’t easily identify the tiny body changes. But trying a problem over and over and trying new things you can learn what works and what doesn’t.

Also asking friends or strangers how they did something can very helpful. I find climbers are very happy to share advice when asked (but usually won’t offer as that can be considered rude).

As for strength, I guess it’s very different muscles. It will help when your fingers, forearms and technique are better I’m sure :)

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Thanks for the advice. My forearms are totally ruined at the moment, between climbing and manual labour. But I guess that’s how they’ll get stronger!

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