I’ll start off by saying that he has a bad past life. He was obviously abused by his previous owners and straight up abandoned in the woods. He has bad anxiety that he is on Prozac for, and it seems to be helping for the most part.
Lately he has been grabbing random shit and snapping and growling when someone tries to take it. He’ll grab the stuff off tables and counters to chew, so it’s not like he’s finding random stuff on the floor.
Last night he grabbed tape off of a table and when my sister tried to take it, he bit her hand. It wasn’t hard and barely left a mark, but it is still incredibly concerning. I was the victim of a severe dog attack as a child, so any aggression is not okay. I don’t want to have to get rid of him because he’s my baby boy and I love him so much.
I have no idea how to stop this behavior. I’ve never had a dog act like this. It started in August and has gotten worse in the past month because our living conditions changed. I broke my ankle/leg and I’m laid up for a while at my parents’ place.
Do y’all have any suggestions?
I’m more of a cat guy, but I grew up with dogs, and I always dealt with them by participating in their doggo-world hierarchy, but making absolutely 100% certain that there was zero question who sat atop it. I am much larger than a dog, so this was not difficult for me. Just a little animal intimidation was all that was necessary.
Having a lot of them though, it was always really apparent that they have strong pecking-order style ways of arranging themselves. So, I just participated in their lifestyle. I was young, but it did work, they always listened pretty well to me.
How did you assert your dominance? I don’t want to be rough with my dog and make him more anxious.
I did occasionally do nose thwaps, not hard, but it was what I was taught. It was rare though, and I doubt it was actually necessary. I would growl, and if necessary storm after them and loom over them. That would always get the roll over belly up surrender posture.
I’ve tried that and he would just get very scared. I don’t want him to be scared.
Do not listen to this guy. This is such a dangerous, outdated and bad advice that will only scare your dog and worst will make him bite you. Get some real help with professionals in your area. Abused dogs are really hard to train so please stay away from advice from strangers on the internet.
Dogs are pack animals, you need to be the leader of the pack.
Dogs assert themselves over other dogs.
You need to assert yourself, make sure they know you’re in charge
How should I do that without being rough or scaring him? I don’t want him to regress psychologically. He’s improved so much in regards to his anxiety, and I don’t want that to get messed up.
I’m not sure, maybe his improvements come from feeling that he’s the alpha now.
This is incorrect.
Every reputable source and organisation recognize this pack and dominance theory as an outdated idea, especially for human animal interactions.
The American vetinary society of animal behaviour has very direct and well written statements on that and where the ideas came from and what the modern solutions are.
Beagles are naturally like that. They’re also high energy dogs. I would try to walk and play with him more to wear him out.
Ive been having my little sister take him and the other dogs out to play several times a day. My boy sleeps most of the day though lol
I’m a fosterer with quite a bit of dog training education. I second the advice that you need a good qualified behaviourist, this means degree level study or above.
However, for the meantime, nobody should be taking anything from him by force. This will worsen the behaviour. The things he’s taking don’t sound like they pose danger to him so take all the urgency out of the response. It’s anxiety driven so you want to make everything really chill.
Firstly, clear everything away, as much as possible get things in drawers or too high to reach. The less he can get that he shouldn’t the better.
Work on swapping with a low value item like a toy he doesn’t play with much, so say an old ball, give him the ball, get a treat and offer the treat while holding your hand for the ball. What should happen is he drops the ball, give him the treat, then hand the ball back. He’s learned that nothing bad happens here. He gets the treat AND the ball. Do this 5 times in a row, then leave the ball with him. He’s learned here that it’s all very chill and you’ve reduced his anxiety.
As he gets better at this, increase the challenge slowly, maybe a toy he likes a bit better, then better again. At this point you can also start swapping items, so you take a teddy, give him a treat, then give him a ball. If this makes him anxious then slow down, you want it to be really chill for him.
Eventually he’ll start giving you stuff just to see what he can get. It’s a fun game.
Another exercise you can try if he does get something you don’t want him to have is to throw treats away. If he has something you can throw a treat in one place, then another, then another, while he’s having a great time, quietly remove whatever he had, he’ll probably have forgotten he had it, but make sure it’s quickly hidden to help, give him loads of fuss when it’s gone for extra memory wiping!
Also make sure he is getting enough exercise and attention, and he’s not in pain, these kinds of problems usually start if a dog is feeling crappy for whatever reason.
Thank you so much for all the advice! I’ll definitely try out what you said. He just got a checkup and the vet said he is fine. He could probably use more exercise, but I physically can’t take him out because my leg is messed up. My sister is in charge of that during the day until my parents get home.
Exercise doesn’t have to be walking, how mobile can you be? Can you hide food around the house? Or throw a frisbee?
It might be tricky to teach but if you’re stuck in one spot you can get a couple of balls and play fetch, you hold the second ball, refuse to throw it until he brings the first one within reaching distance, smart dogs get that quite quickly. It also helps their brain cause they have to work out what you want them to do.
Talking of the brain, sometimes thinking is as good as doing, so you can set up puzzles, set up a frozen kong, all sorts.
The room I’m in isn’t good for fetch or stuff like that. I’m going to see if my parents can help me into the yard tomorrow so I can play with all of the dogs. My sister said she made up a new game with them that they love but won’t go into more detail lol.
I’ve given my dogs kongs, but the beagle loses interest if he can’t easily get the stuff out. If I make the kings easy, he’ll eat it all in 30 seconds. The puppy isn’t food motivated and just ignores the kongs.
This is such a good reply! I didn’t see it before I posted despite it being older, must have been a fedi hiccup.
You are getting some dangerous advice in this thread that can make things worse.
You already have a bite, that’s a huge sign that you have escalated past the normal behavior stuff. Talk to a professional, talk to a local organization, like the local humane society, respected training center, or your vet, and get some real advice.
Pushing back and acting violent towards a violent dog can get you hurt and the dog put down.
I’m not going to be violent with my dog. He has enough issues. I wanted ways to get this behavior stopped in a way that has positive reinforcement or some shit.
Professional advice is the best route to go. In the meantime there is a wonderful YT channel called “No Bad Dogs” out of NYC I believe. Their approach is full-spectrum regarding positive reinforcement, positive punishment, etc. Also, one of the main ways I work with my (non-abused puppies & not a professional) with resource guarding is as follows: grab a low-value and high-value item. Give the dog the low-value item, tell them “out” after a short time (no touching/forcing), the moment they drop it say “yes” and give them the high-value item. Do this randomly, short and sweet. Best of luck.
