SP3NGL3RB
I have a regular UPS for my server+NAS, and a small lithium one (pocket sized) for my low voltage things (basically all my network gear, sans POE). It was inexpensive and works fantastically. The best part was erasing 4 power brick transformers from my network closet and replacing them with just a 5V barrel cable directly to the UPS. I think it’s highest output is 12V which runs my 24-port switch (I think, maybe my router).
A LAN works without the Internet at all. CG-NAT is the internet for you. So anything LAN related is free of cg-nat restrictions.
DHCP could change your internal IP, so it’s nice to have static IPs sometimes.
they’re both AC1900 devices. so unless you can get the Asus to work in more of a mesh-mode where one of it’s antennas are dedicated to the upstream/backhaul side you won’t see improvement. NOW, if you can, say with DD-WRT (check your version: https://wiki.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC68U) then you should be able to get “full duplex” out of it as a repeater, because now it’s a mesh-node not a repeater.
That is pretty surprising isn’t it? I do feel it’s more complex than power wires, but not by much. And to be fair I’ve rewired a few ceiling fan/lights in my day or 2-switch light controls and the wording on those instructions makes ZERO sense. “be sure to attach the hot wire to the hot terminal on the fixture” … but the fixture has zero indicators to which side is hot/cold and is symmetric to the drawing. However, one plate is copper and the other is silver (in color), so there IS a difference but what is it? stupid engineers. Don’t say “hot/cold” or “+/-” for a device that can only be identified as “silver/copper”. :p
I recently finished my basement (~150sq.m. / 1500sq.ft.), I’m nerdy so be prepared. I bought a 300m spool of CAT6a, and ran about 13 drops.
I ran (myself) network to about every other power outlet, 1 stud away from the power. And one to my ceiling (central) for a WiFi access point. This is hands down the most important one for me. Super clean looking and powerful WiFi. I also included power and network in 3 closets (never know where I’ll want my NAS) and to the outside corners directly into weather resistant junction boxes so no wire is exposed (cameras). Each of the 3 rooms got 2 (opposing corners), the kitchen, all along the main room wall, and to a built in bookshelf that has become my TV cabinet (receiver/amp + Nvidia Shield feeding to a projector in the main room).
I did not bother with 2 runs everywhere because switches are just too easy and/or WiFi. Heck a basic switch can even be powered over POE so minimal wiring needed. And everything runs back to a “structured media cabinet” housing my fiber-ONT (so I had the ISP move my fiber here), router, switches, and network patch panels for the whole house. Ask the electrician (a low voltage kind) to “terminate to an Ethernet patch panel” so it’s easier for you to use. Also demand that they do NOT staple the wires, and test each for at minimum perfect 1 gigabit performance, probably 10Gb at these ranges.
Is your subnet /16? Really just < /22 I think
If the alternatives are still fiber, I’d suggest 50 min 100 max, save your money. Fiber is important because of outbound speeds (upload), and with fiber it’s generally a match to your download. Where coax (from the TV company) is about a 10% upload ratio to your download. Upload affects a ton that people don’t realize. Backing up your phone photos, video calls (your image is better), voice over WiFi (VoIP). 25 Mbps is totally fine for streaming (15-29Mbps for 4k) or gaming (game downloads take longer, but game play only needs like 1-2Mbos).
If those things don’t matter, then the only thing left is gaming. If you play online then ping/lag/latency should be your #1 concern, not download. The best way to assess this is to maybe ask any neighbors you bump into that you think might game. Do the “hey, I need to choose my Internet. Who do you have and how is it here?”.
Lastly. Don’t lock into a contract if you have multiple vendors if you can avoid it. This lets you flip flop if desired. Be like “I only need it for 2 months unless I get extended, and the other company waived the termination fee because I’m a nurse and might have to move soon again”
I know a basic ‘dumb’ switch can’t handle VLAN tags being passed through it, but something like the TP-Link ‘smart’ unmanaged switch (TL-SG108E) might allow it. It’s fanless and supports VLANs at least by physical separation and 802.1Q support.
According to ChatGPT:
Yes, the TP-Link TL-SG108E is a managed switch, and it supports VLAN functionality. This means that it can handle VLAN tagging and pass VLAN-tagged frames through its ports.
If you have an access point or any other device upstream that is tagging its frames with VLAN information, and you connect it to one of the ports on the TP-Link TL-SG108E, the switch should be able to pass those VLAN-tagged frames through to other devices on the network, provided that the other devices and the switch are properly configured to handle VLANs.
Keep in mind that for VLANs to work correctly, all the devices involved, including the switch and the devices connected to it, must be configured consistently with regard to VLAN settings. If you need to segregate network traffic using VLANs, you’ll need to configure the TP-Link TL-SG108E accordingly, specifying which ports are members of which VLANs. Additionally, the connected devices, such as the access point, should be configured to tag their frames with the appropriate VLAN identifiers.
You’ll be happy with either I think. I run Omada and it’s great for my home use. It was also less expensive and didn’t have supply chain issues when I was searching. Today, I’m not sure but I have seen many complaining anymore that UniFi just isn’t available. So I’m guessing they fixed that problem.