jon_slider
Beautiful work! thanks for the photos
fwiw, something like that could be good for pilots that want a Red Light in the cockpit, plus powerful enought white light to do exterior walk around inspections.
MAO D2 today… Love the regulated output w no PWM
Wurkkos TS10 MAO w sw45k mod is in my pocket. It is my favorite TS10.
picture album: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP
in stock form I like to carry the Silver TS10 w 6000K leds… review album here: https://imgur.com/a/H9Usict
these flowcharts are just fantastic!
thank you very much for sharing them
I have started using them, marked up with the specific changes I make to different anduril lights I own, like this one for my Aluminium TS10’s:
https://i.imgur.com/YH8Eh5A.png
makes it really easy to keep track of changes I make to the factory defaults
I nominate this thread to be a sticky… Thumbs Up!
thanks, fun video,
Im going to tell people that copper lights smell like mushrooms… lol…
I did not know at the time blinky modes were conflicting with thermal throttle.
Im glad you shared your experience, I also did not know the blinkies have no Thermal Regulation…
I may use it at full power again (while shooting), but turning it off between takes and cooling it in water.
ok, I hope that works out for you… imo, the problem is that you are using too high an output, it obviously gets too hot when you use “full power”… Candle mode was intended to be used at very low outputs… you are imho, misusing the candle mode for something that is not its intended purpose, and you are allowing the light to get too hot by not holding it in your hand.
but, if you insist… I suggest you stand the light in a glass of water, so the host will be cooled during the excessively high output…
I used it continuously in candle mode @ high with the original silicone diffuser for a video shoot
now that you have learned it gets too hot and has no thermal regulation…
suggest next time you want to use candle mode, that you limit your use to level 6 of the 7 stepped modes… and check with your hand after a couple of minutes, to confirm if that keeps the light cool enough
well-photographed
thanks…
the secret for me, has turned out to be to take photos during daylight hours (not in the dark)… it seems to help the iPhone camera (auto white balance), to produce useful beam color comparisons, for me… Plus daylight shows what the host looks like.
the other thing that has turned out really handy as a background is my gray soldering mat… (better than white paper).
example: https://i.imgur.com/HuON5ib.jpg
UV
here is a good video of a D2 w UV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTk1XAh8EFU
and a good review of a D2: https://tgreviews.com/2023/04/26/emisar-d2/
the reviews have differing opinions on whether to choose the spot optic or the flood optic… I went with the flood option and am very happy with it… (it is Not Very Floody, it just makes the beam round instead of square)