I’ve had an Ender 3 v2 for a few years now and have had mostly no issues. I’ve upgraded the hot end to a microswiss direct drive and a dual z setup (twin z steppers on a shared cable).
Recently started having issues with the 4.2.2 board and replaced it with a BTT mini SKR 3 v3.
Since I’ve put the new board in, I am having troubles getting the bed to level and stay level.
The height profile of the bed is now showing a dip in the centre (which was not there before). When I run a print it seems to be overcompensating for the dip. If I level the bed with the corner screws and don’t use the bed mesh then it prints fairly good, but after a few prints the bed goes out of level again.
I can’t seem to make any adjustments that help the issue. Yesterday tightened up all the screws (silicon spacers instead of springs). Releveled the bed and had a small dip in the middle and an overall height difference of 0.170 across the bed (normal prior to this was 0.310). Sent a print with bed mesh and mostly came out good.
Went to fire up a new print today and the bed height is showing 0.830 overall difference.
I’m not sure if it is a BL touch issue (the BL touch is a v3.1 and is original with a single 5 wire connector plugged into mini SKR) dual z issue (disconnected 1 in an attempt to level and didn’t see much difference, the BTT has two connectors for dual z but run off one stepper driver as I understand it, I am using the y cable for only one stepper motor, while the other motor has its own cable).
I use klipper with a RPi zero 2 w.
I just can’t seem to figure out that has been causing the issue since the board swap.
Anyone have some ideas as where to point me?
Not sure how hacky you want to get, but I found that my E3V2Neo got significantly more accurate once I set up independent z control.
Unfortunately, the Mini SKR only has 4 stepper drivers, so I used my old 4.2.2 board in conjunction with the Mini SKR and klipper to enable z_tilt_adjust.
I had a ton of trouble (bed leveling) with the regular dual-z upgrade until then. It’s pretty easy to run another set of 24v wires to the old Creality board and I found a printable case to hold everything. Just make sure you use one board for both Z’s rather than splitting them across two boards to avoid latency.
I’m happy to post my klipper config if you want to try it.
