Super simple prototype but if it works… Very cool idea!

10 points
*

This is a very good start. It will have limited effectiveness depending how exactly wet the filament is though, as the diffusion speed of water in plastic is low and it takes time to get the water actually out of the center to the surface to evaporate. The few minutes a filament sits in the inline dryer might be OK for surface moisture but will fail with wetter spools.

I think the ideal system would be to have a dry box that the heating unit and fan blow into, but then feed the filament out to the printer through a “stove pipe” that acts as the dry box exhaust. This way you’re still drying the whole spool over time but then get that “final blast” to ensure the surface is as dry as possible. Make sure to insulate all walls such that you reduce how much heat you lose as the air passes through.

permalink
report
reply
2 points

Yeah, I’m definitely interested to see some experiments. I was surprised it worked as well as it did but if it does it’d be super useful

permalink
report
parent
reply
6 points

I had wondered about this as well and think it’s an awesome idea. Combo of good dry storage and printing from an active dry box seem to make this a non issue for me, but I like the idea. Maybe a coil of ptfe tubing that is fenestrated and with dessicant, a bit of heat and proper fan could do this quickly with minimal resistance. I bet its possible. I paid $45 I think for my firefly box. To me, I would place A value of about $90 on a system that did this well.

permalink
report
reply
5 points
*

Argh finally someone tries the obvious solution. I was already considering it but was demotivated since it seemed so obvious and nobody seemed to have done it before.

This device could also probably be printed in PLA. I can’t wait until I get my lab power supply so I can give this a try with a wire coil heater.

Edit: you could even mount some PTFE tubing mounted below a heated bed and pass air through it. That way you could potentially get away without a heating element and re-use some power usually lost.

permalink
report
reply
3 points

This was a great video. I enjoyed the creator’s off key humour, for once.

permalink
report
reply
3 points
*

I doubt this will work with faster printing materials. 40mm/s is suuuuper slow compared to speeds that most modern printers are spitting filament with (not necessarily TPU). Unless you have a coil or something inside the tube heater so it spends longer time in there, but that probably also introduces a lot of resistance so moving the material through is notably harder.

permalink
report
reply
1 point

Wonder if you could use some sort of buffer system to extend the time in the dryer

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

What about a pre-extruder or a set (or pultruder?) that brings it to just below the glass transition temp, but still at the original filament size? Water boils off, plastic is left!

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

You “just” need a longer distance inside the drying chamber. This could be achieved by coiling up the space where the filament travels through and guide hot and dry air through that space, ideally from the outlet towards the inlet. That air could maybe be pulled from the hotend cooler.

permalink
report
parent
reply
3 points
*

This could be achieved by coiling up the space where the filament travels through

Yes, that’s also what I already mentioned in the other comment…

“Unless you have a coil or something inside the tube heater so it spends longer time in there”

but as I also mentioned, pulling filamennt through a coil will also introduce significantly more resistance than pulling (or pushing if using bowden) it straight, which might be an issue at high speeds and cause under extrusion.

permalink
report
parent
reply
1 point

Sorry, I completely didn’t read all of your comment. You’re right about resistance but then again the filament won’t need to touch the enclosing coil at a large surface. In the usual bowden tubes, you have a lot of contact surface between tube and filament but this would not need to be the case in the drying coil. In the end it would all depend on the application. I’m not interested in very high speed printing (yet) because my machines are all pretty slow :).

permalink
report
parent
reply

3DPrinting

!3dprinting@lemmy.world

Create post

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

  • No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.

  • Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.

  • No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)

  • No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing

  • Do not create links to reddit

  • If you see an issue please flag it

  • No guns

  • No injury gore posts

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

Community stats

  • 1.8K

    Monthly active users

  • 1.3K

    Posts

  • 17K

    Comments